Smiley playing small violin

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Upon the arrival in Cuba, foreigners usually get in the resort zone, where Cuban economic troubles won’t affect them for sure, at once. They have “smorgasbords” in 5-star hotels, diving, sea outings on yachts to coral reefs and lobster lunch here. The service is excellent, the staff is smiley, the territory is enclosed, and native people are not allowed even to bathe in the local sea. However few foreigners can boast of having seen real Cuba: the tourist zones are the states within the states that have little to do with the Island of Freedom…

The majority of tourists buy tours to Varadero, a Cuban resort. Varadero was considered to be the best beach in the Caribbean Basin before the local revolution. American millionaires had even preferred it to Jamaica, until the communists came to power. Divers represent a special category of tourists here. The matter is that the sea around is the largest cemetery of ships in the world. The route to Europe, along which Spanish galleys exported gold from the New World, passed here. The ships often sank because of the overload. According to the scientists’ calculations, 400 vessels sank in the port of Havana alone.

Small An-26 fly to the other side of Cuba, the island of Kayo Largo, from the airport of Varadero. Sometimes it is called “the only Caribbean island that has preserved the quiet and the charm of the nineteenth century”. Playa Esmeralda, the most beautiful beach of Cuba, Guardalavaca, the famous beach with the magnificent coral reef and Playa Peskero with the extremely beautiful seabed are situated here. The sand is wonderfully white there, the sea is never stormy, and the hotels that work according to «all inclusive» system are jam-packed with the Europeans.

But if you want to see real Cuba, go to Havana. The history of the city has been traced from 1515. The splendid mansions of the Spanish colonization period neighbour upon the socialist buildings here, ultramodern skyscrapers -upon the ramshackle hovels of the outskirts. The private houses or the “particular” represent the most exotic and cheap variant of lodging here. It is possible to find such “private boardinghouse” only if you take a Spanish dictionary with you and pester some local with the question. One can find a “particular” with all conveniences in the centre of the city for 20 dollars per day and a couple of dollars for the “guide”.

In order to follow the style, we advise to eat in private institutions called “paladar” as well. Every resident of Havana acquired the right to open a small restaurant consisting of three tables for 12 persons in his/ her own flat as the present from the government several years ago. The unauthorized augment of seats is severely punished. The menu is regulated as well: only chicken or beef dishes can be served in such cafes. But the precious sea inhabitants are the national heritage; common Cubans have no right to catch them. According to the recently issued law, if a lobster is found in the refrigerator at a Cuban’s place, the refrigerator will be confiscated.

When you want to communicate with the local population, go to famous «Floridita» bar, where Hemingway was the frequenter. Hemingway represents a peculiar epoch to Cuba. There are a lot of places in Havana, where he liked to be; there is his table, chair, favourite bench in the park, favourite cocktails, with the recipes of which he “entrusted” his descendants. And his favourite seat near the stanchion in the corner of «Floridita» bar, where a small orchestra with the violoncello, violin and accordion plays songs to the order, and the visitors sip “Daiquiri” made of rum, lemon juice, sugar and maraschino. One more place in Old Havana is connected with his name as well – «La bodeguita del medio», the bar and the restaurant. “Mohitos”, rum with ice and mint, which is a less dainty, but more traditional Cuban drink, is in vogue in this bar.

By the way, if you are a great admirer of rum, go to Rum Museum some time. You will be offered to compare various sorts of the strong drink there, and you will realize the difference between Havana Club, which is famous all over the world, and odd Guayabita del Pinar, which is produced nowhere else in the world. “Having degusted to your heart content”, buy a bottle of seven-year-old rum in order to regale the friends at home. It will cost only 7 dollars.

Of course, one should sip rum holding a cigar in hand. The best-known Cuban cigars are of Воlivаг sort, with the smack of dry earth and spices, of Соhiba, La Gloria Cubana sorts and of noble and expensive Hoyo de Monterrey sort. Cuba even opened a special hotel for experienced smokers to spite the Americans, who create hotels for nonsmokers. It is called “Conde de Villanueva” and is situated in the marvelous building of the city mansion of the XVIII-th century in Havana. There are only nine rooms of a huge size on two storeys of the total area of 2,5 thousand square metres. Each of them has been given its own name, which is connected with the concrete sort of cigars, and the prices for the daily lease here strike imagination. And a small smiley Cuban sells the same cigars for several dollars under the hotel window covertly, and it is more pleasant to smoke them than those that are sold for dollars in currency shops for foreigners, to tell the truth…

Iuri Tarabanov writes about interesting travel experiences. His Travel Deals site is http://www.travelime.com

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